Edinburgh- The City That Commands Exploration

Regal, romantic and dignified, Edinburgh is one of those cities that demands respect. From the medieval tenements and hobbled vennels of the Old Town, to the refined elegance and grace of the Georgian New Town, this is a capital that implores you to explore.

A town of two halves, Edinburgh dances between contrasts. It is a peculiar city that drapes across rolling hills and majestic mountains; where soft plumes of daffodils meet with the rocky greys of historic turrets.

By day, bustling cafes will welcome you with a friendly embrace. And as the afternoon haze melts into moonlight, cocktails and flickering candlelight await. Edinburgh may be built on seven hills, but the city is actually fairly compact and very easy to saunter around across a long weekend.

Where to visit: Edinburgh Old Town - the royal flush.

This is where the Royal Mile, (the Old Town’s main street), connects Edinburgh Castle with The Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s official residence. Nearby, you’ll find Arthur’s Seat, an ancient and now extinct volcanic peak that you can easily climb for panoramic views.

Some of the city’s most traditional pubs are peppered along the Old Town, for example, The World’s End. (£) From the outside, The World’s End’s exterior used to form part of the Flodden Wall; a 16th century fort that protected Edinburgh’s historic town. Back then, the people of Edinburgh thought the world outside this wall was no longer theirs to roam, so they would rarely venture beyond this boundary.

Inside, The World’s End is a cosy network of nooks and crannies, with traditional wooden features and walls adorned by historic notices - crafting the sort of magical atmosphere that makes the best of pubs.

Velvety, smooth and dangerously moreish, the Guinness here is pretty fine too.

Scallops | @whitehorseoysterbar

For divine food and a slight change in tempo, hop across the road to White Horse Oysters & Seafood. (£/££)

Situated on the site of the oldest inn on Edinburgh's Royal Mile, the White Horse serves fresh British seafood and shellfish, all sustainably sourced from boutique suppliers. Expect small plates, sharing platters and hand-crafted cocktails, all washed down with a carefully curated selection of wine and fizz. We tried the Keep On Shuckin’ £2 Oyster Happy Hour (Feb ‘22) and opted for numerous rounds of all three options: Carlingford, (nutty & sweet with a delicious after-taste), Loch Fyne, (soft flavours with a clean, zinc finish) and Caledonian (featuring big, fruity flavours and a tangy finish).

Indulging further into the menu, we set about tucking into spicy Bloody Marys, accompanied with:

- Hand Dived Scallops, with pickled girolle, furikake and roasted mushroom, (fresh, buttery scallops forced on a golden bed of yolk with a rich, earthy smatter of blended mushroom).

- Scotch Bonnet Salmon, with avocado and heritage tomato, (generously thick slices of fresh, light salmon, offset with a peppering of chilli).

- Monkfish Satay (skewered chunks of sweet monkfish, smothered with a savoury, nutty satay sauce)

- Mussels, with garlic and sauvignon broth, (delicious mussels served with a deeply luxurious lick of rich, creamy broth).

Tacos | @elcartelroxburgh

If you’re heading back from the Royal Mile and inwards, towards Waverley Station, you could also stop at El Cartel (Roxburgh) - famed for its cult tacos, good tequila and a vibrant Mexican cocktail menu. (£) Opt for:

- Lengua de Buey, with crispy braised ox tongue, aioli, radish, white onion and cooked salsa, (memorable).

- Smoked Cheese and Leek, with chipotle soft cheese, courgettes and leeks, red onion, pico de gallo, coriander, (interesting and devilishly delicious).

- Baja Cod, with battered cod, pomegranate, adobo cream, pico de gallo (tasty) - Chamoy Rings, with apricot and lime glaze, (one to write home about).

Just north of the station, you’ll find Hoot The Redeemer (££), a curious speakeasy bar and self-proclaimed ‘unofficial king of the cocktail slushy’. The vibe is fun, curious and carefree - while the creative decor resembles that of a bohemian fairground.

@hoottheredeemer

We opted for the Zoltar’s Wish, made with Monkey Shoulder, blended Scotch whisky, stirred down with a cacao nib and lemon cordial, finished with barrel aged bitters - all served over a crystal clear block of ice, designed to keep your drink perfectly chilled without over-dilution.

Slightly north of Hoot The Redeemer, be sure to head to Dirty Dicks (£), a quirky, rustic pub, filled with bric-a-brad and eclectic memorabilia. Serving up craft beer, Scottish whisky, gin and good music, this Edinburgh institution is a cave of antiquities.

If you’re in need of some food on the go as you meander across town, find your closest Bross Bagels (£), who offer happy curb-side pick-ups. Whether you’re a fan of thickly laid cream cheese, salt beef, salmon, cauliflower or pastrami, this is a menu that’s full to the brim with choice.

For a stand-out meal in Edinburgh city centre, The Outsider offers laid-back eating with fresh, seasonal produce. While the menu is ever-changing by nature (literally), the wine list is always perfectly formed and features varieties from across the globe.

With a twinkling ambience and breathtaking views of the castle, this is a restaurant that exudes coolness and class.

Grassmarket - the backdrop to Edinburgh’s twisted history. So-called as it was once the site of horse fairs and cattle markets in the 14th century. It later became the site for public executions - and the last hanging took place there in 1784. Today, the area is somewhat more vibrant, as the cobbled streets are awash with cosy pubs, contemporary bars and shops.

Stroll half-way up Victoria St and stop at Bow Bar - a welcoming, dug-friendly pub (say hello to Arthur), where you can enjoy over 400 award-winning whisky and craft beers from across Scotland and the UK.

@the_bow_bar_edinburgh

It’s the sort of boozer where even the most shy among us will leave with a friend (furry, or otherwise). Be sure to occupy the window-seats, so you’re in the best position to take in the winding street views - and people watch across the pub.

Located in the West End of Edinburgh, Haymarket is close enough to the city, but offers a nice balance for those wanting to stay somewhere with slightly less bustle. While you’re in the area, you must head to Wildcat (££) for some of the city’s best cocktails.

Located next to King’s Theatre, on Tarvit St, Wildcat offers a sophisticated mix of classic and contemporary cocktails, run by two old school bartenders.

The House Old Fashioned | @thewildcatedinburgh

While it is home to the £5 negroni (and a very good one at that), it’s the House Old Fashioned that we’d most urge you to try - made up of Naked Malt, Complex Syrup, Fernet Branca and Angostura Bitters (unforgettable, this is a drink that will linger in your mind for months to come).